Summer wouldn’t be summer without a visit to the Cotswolds, but on my last trip I spent as much time edging through the crowds and selfie sticks as I did enjoying the place.
The area is still undeniably beautiful, but it left me wondering where else might offer the same country-break appeal – handsome streets, good cafés, independent shops and glorious scenery – without the volume of visitors.
And that’s how I stumbled across Crickhowell, a small market town in Powys, in the Usk Valley on the edge of Bannau Brycheiniog, arguably Wales’ alternative to the Cotswolds
The comparison is easy enough to see. Crickhowell is small, but its high street has the range and mix that many larger places would envy. There are bookshops, galleries, cafés, an artisanal bakery, a river running through town and breathtaking walking country just beyond it.
In an age where so many high streets feel increasingly interchangeable, Crickhowell has become known for championing its independent businesses and pushing back against the chain-store sameness that has dulled so many other town centres. Local businesses have joined forces in campaigns to protect that identity – the result is a place with real local spirit rather than a high street that looks nice in photos.
“What makes Crickhowell so remarkable is its warmth and sense of community – but never in a way that feels exclusive,” explains Emma Corfield-Waters owner of Book-ish, the town’s independent book shop.
“Whether you're here for an afternoon, a week, or a lifetime, you quickly feel included and at home. That might be through chatting with shopkeepers and fellow customers on the High Street, lingering in a café or pub, or exploring the surrounding hills and mountains.
“Perhaps that's why people return time and again,” she says. “They leave a little piece of their heart here, and many eventually choose to make it their home. In many ways, Crickhowell belongs to far more people than those fortunate enough to live here permanently.”
What to do in Crickhowell
Explore the town on foot
Crickhowell was made for wandering. The River Usk and the town’s old bridge give it much of its visual charm, while Bridge Street, lined with pastel-painted cottages, offers a quieter, older side of the town. Bullpit Meadow and Castle Park provide green breathing spaces, and the ruins of Crickhowell Castle, a Norman stronghold dating from the 1270s, are a reminder of the town's fascinating history.
Shop the independents
Crickhowell’s high street is the obvious place to begin. Book-ish is the headline stop – not simply a place to buy books, but somewhere that hosts author talks, quizzes, writing groups and book clubs.
CWCW is a good independent clothing shop, with a well-chosen mix of easy, modern pieces. Then there is Natural Weigh, Wales’s first zero-waste shop, where customers bring their own containers to stock up on pantry staples and household goods. Nicholls is known for fashion and giftware, while other independents sell antiques, flowers, art, wine, bread, outdoor gear and artisan food while papyrophiles will love Panda’s Paper Boutique.
Webbs of Crickhowell has been part of the town since the 1930s, when it began as a paraffin delivery service. It is now a sprawling family-run department store and ironmonger that sells everything from furniture and fine china.
Stop for coffee, cake and lunch
Latte-Da prides itself using locally sourced ingredients for it’s seasonal menu as well as exceptional coffee. For delicious bread, pastries and cakes check out Crickhowell Bakery, where home-baked offerings range from streusel-crumbed muffins to umami cheese and marmite focaccia. The perfect place to assemble a picnic before heading out of town. The café at Book-ish is another great place to settle in – the café serves the "best avocado on toast and poached eggs that I’ve had outside Sydney – and I do not say that lightly," says Country Living’s editor-in-chief Saska Graville.
Tap into the town’s cultural life
For a place of its size, Crickhowell has a notably active cultural calendar. Book-ish is part of that. Clarence Hall also hosts performances and community events, and the town also has walking, literary and classical music festivals. In summer, the nearby Green Man Festival at Glanusk Estate adds another layer to the area’s cultural pull.
Head out into the landscape
One of the things that makes Crickhowell such a lovely weekend destination is how quickly the town gives way to countryside. Within minutes, you can be walking beside the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal, or heading up Crug Hywel — better known as Table Mountain — for wider views over the valley. Beyond that lies the broader sweep of Bannau Brycheiniog, which is what gives Crickhowell that appealing sense of being both tucked away and wide open to the landscape around it.
Where to stay in and around Crickhowell
The Dragon Inn
If you want to be right in the middle of things, The Dragon Inn makes a very handy base. Sitting in the heart of town, it is more classic market-town inn than polished boutique stay, but that is part of the appeal. You can step straight out to Crickhowell’s shops and cafés, with riverside walks close by too — ideal for a weekend spent pottering about on foot.
The Tower
If you are after something a little more private, The Tower is a good alternative to a traditional inn stay. It feels better suited to anyone wanting a quieter, more independent base near Crickhowell, with a bit more space and flexibility to come and go as they please.
The Chapel, Glan yr Afon
If you are after something with a bit more atmosphere, The Chapel, Glan yr Afon is a lovely option. Rather than a standard room-for-the-night sort of stay, it has the charm of a converted character property, and feels especially well suited to couples or anyone wanting something a little more distinctive and escapist.
