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Not just for summer: 5 coastal towns in the UK for an off-season staycation
According to someone who's explored the UK coast
Whenever I tell someone about my walk around the coast of Great Britain, they're keen to compare notes on places they've been to.
I do my best to crank the rusty handle of my memory and piece together snippets from that place in the hope that by completing the easier edges of that day's jigsaw, the tricky middle bits might fall into place.
There are exceptions, of course — places I remember clearly because I stopped there for a rest day, or was shown around by my hosts, or simply because they struck me as somewhere I'd like to go back to.
Many places on the list are best kept for a summer's day, but here are five coastal towns that are perfect for a winter weekend away.
Kirkcudbright, Scotland
Pronounced Ker-coo-bree, Kircudbright sits at the mouth of the River Dee in Dumfries and Galloway. Kircudbright is best known for being Scotland's artists' town — thanks to the landscapes and light that continue to draw artists from all over.
Visit Maclellan Castle (peek through the spy hole - bored through the stone wall to allow Sir Thomas Maclellan to eavesdrop on his less trustworthy guests), then make your way round the galleries, starting at the Tollbooth Art Centre and taking care not to miss Broughton House & Garden.
Now owned by the National Trust of Scotland, Glasgow Boy, E.A Hornel lived here from 1901 until he died in 1933, and his furniture, books and manuscripts are displayed alongside his work.
When I asked my host Tricia to recommend things to see and do in her hometown, she took a deep breath and replied, “Walking, hiking, excavation, bird sanctuaries, castles, stately homes, beaches, museums….or just sit and look out over the harbour and the hills beyond."
Stay in one of the comfortable, friendly hotels that do a good, if predictable line in tartan carpet and Tattie Scones for breakfast, or for a room with a view, book Treetop Lodge — a cabin in the woods just above Kircudbright with outdoor bath and log burner.
Bridport, Dorset
Not strictly coastal, Bridport sits a mile inland, but is no less charming for it.
This pretty market town sits just above the point at which the Rivers Brit and Asker meet. Bridport has more than enough to keep you busy for a couple of days, but it also makes a useful base, within stone-throwing distance from beautiful Seatown beach and the excellent Anchor Inn, as well as Golden Cap (the South Coast’s highest cliff) and West Bay's busy harbour. Bridport is thick with options for eating and shopping.
The market runs every Wednesday and Saturday - you’ll find food, vintage clothes and second-hand books - and the Alleyways Antiques is home to more than 50 traders.
Stay at the Bull Hotel, have coffee at Soulshine and cocktails at Mercato Italiano. If the weather's right, walk from Bridport to West Bay to Burton Bradstock and back again - it's a full day's walk (especially if you stop for crab sandwiches at the Hive Beach Cafe) and takes in all the Jurassic Coast has to offer.
North Berwick, Scotland
Another town with almost too much to recommend it, North Berwick looks across the Firth of Forth to the fishing villages of the Fife Coast.
Just a 30-minute hop from Edinburgh, it's easy to make a day trip from the city, but better to spend a couple of days exploring this pretty seaside town. It's the East Coast of Scotland, so you can expect a smattering of smart golf courses - but if that's not your bag, make the most of big skies, sandy beaches, fairytale castles and excellent food.
Between early March and late October, you can take a boat to the Bass Rock - home to the world's largest colony of northern gannets. Or stay on dry land and watch their comings and goings via the Scottish Seabird Centre's live webcams.
Head East to Tantallon Castle via breakfast at the Drift Cafe or West to Dirleton Castle and Gardens. I arrived on a rainy September afternoon, cold, wet and dispirited at the change in seasons. But after tea and a scone at Cake Cafe (still one of my favourite Instagram follows), followed by a joyful evening with my hosts Carolyn, Keith and their son Ailill, I was sold. You will be too.
Rochester Kent
You don't need to look far for a reason to visit Rochester. Tucked into the crook of the River Medway's elbow, the town (it was a city until 1968 and is working hard to regain city status) has a bit of everything.
It's home to Rochester Castle and Cathedral (the second oldest in England) as well as museums, independent shops, cafes and restaurants. And there's more — Rochester was so beloved by Charles Dickens that it features more in his books than any other town.
You can visit his Restoration House — re-imagined in Great Expectations as Satis House, home to Miss Havisham. I arrived on a late November afternoon, crossing the River Medway just as the low winter sun dropped behind the castle — and stayed that night with Kate, who owns the Snuggery holiday cottage, and runs a furniture business. "At this time of year, the Cathedral is amazing", she says. "There's always something happening there.
For shopping, go to Copenhagen Blue, Capture the Castle or Austens of Rochester. Walk part of the 6-mile trail that runs south from the town centre, then warm up with hot chocolate from Cheese Rooms. If there's time, head to St Andrew's Lakes for a sauna and cold dip, or walk downriver to Chatham's Historic Dockyard. Round off your day with a spicy margarita at Wolfe & Castle - the best in Kent!
St Davids, Pembrokeshire
St Davids doesn't need much introduction. As the UK's smallest city, what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for with a magnificent cathedral, and arguably more beautiful Bishop's Palace.
I arrived in St Davids on Good Friday and spent a luxurious two nights in the same place. On day one, I took a local bus to my start point for that day and walked back to my digs. The next day I did the same in reverse, setting out from St Davids that morning, and bussing it back after that day’s walk.
From St Davids, you can take a boat to Skomer or Ramsey Island — home to breeding sea birds and in the summer, seals and their pups. At this time of year, start with coffee and Welsh cakes at MamGu's Kitchen, then turn left or right along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (one section of the Wales Coast Path) for a day walking some of Great Britain's most unspoilt coastline, then flag down the Celtic Coaster shuttle back to St Davids for handmade pizza at Grain.
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